[01:41.500]So we left Beirut Willa and I [01:44.500]He headed East to Baghdad and the rest of it [01:48.000]I set out North on home [01:51.200]I walked the five or six miles to the last of the street lamps [01:54.900]And hunkered in the kerbside dusk [01:57.000]Holding out my thumb [01:58.500]In no great hope at the ramshackle procession of home bound traffic [02:03.500]Success! [02:05.500]An ancient Mercedes 'dolmus ' [02:08.000]The ubiquitous Arab shared taxi drew up [02:11.800]I turned out my pockets and shrugged at the driver [02:15.500]" J'ai pas de l'argent " “ [02:17.900]" Venez! " A soft voice from the back seat “ [02:20.800]The driver lent wearily across and pushed open the back door [02:25.200]I stooped to look inside at the two men there [02:28.000]One besuited, bespectacled, moustached, irritated, distant, late [02:33.800]The other, the one who had spoken, [02:36.800]Frail, fifty five-ish, bald, sallow, in a short sleeved pale blue cotton shirt [02:43.000]With one biro in the breast pocket [02:45.000]A clerk maybe, slightly sunken in the seat [02:48.800]"Venez!" He said again, and smiled “ [02:52.300]"Mais j'ai pas de l'argent" “ [02:53.600]"Oui, Oui, d'accord, Venez!" [02:58.600]Are these the people that we should bomb [03:05.300]Are we so sure they mean us harm [03:12.500]Is this our pleasure, punishment or crime [03:19.000]Is this a mountain that we really want to climb [03:25.900]The road is hard, hard and long [03:32.750]Put down that two by four [03:35.400]This man would never turn you from his door [03:39.900]Oh George! Oh George! [03:45.600]That Texas education must have ****** you up when you were very small [03:53.600]He beckoned with a small arthritic motion of his hand [03:57.300]Fingers together like a child waving goodbye [04:01.600]The driver put my old Hofner guitar in the boot with my rucksack [04:05.100]And off we went [04:07.650]" Vous etes Francais, monsieur? " “ [04:09.300]" Non, Anglais " [04:10.400]" Ah! Anglais " [04:13.000]" Est-ce que vous parlais Anglais, Monsieur? " “ [04:14.950]"Non, je regrette" “ [04:17.200]And so on [04:18.300]In small talk between strangers, his French alien but correct [04:23.000]Mine halting but eager to please [04:25.300]A lift, after all, is a lift [04:28.750]Late moustache left us brusquely [04:30.800]And some miles later the dolmus slowed at a crossroads lit by a single lightbulb [04:35.150]Swung through a U-turn and stopped in a cloud of dust [04:39.000]I opened the door and got out [04:41.100]But my benefactor made no move to follow [04:47.400]The driver dumped my guitar and rucksack at my feet [04:49.800]And waving away my thanks returned to the boot [04:52.300]Only to reappear with a pair of alloy crutches [04:55.300]Which he leaned against the rear wing of the Mercedes. [04:59.050]He reached into the car and lifted my companion out [05:02.000]Only one leg, the second trouser leg neatly pinned beneath a vacant hip [05:06.900]" Monsieur, si vous voulez, ca sera un honneur pour nous “ [05:09.700]Si vous venez avec moi a la maison pour manger avec ma femme " [05:15.700]When I was 17 my mother, bless her heart, fulfilled my summer dream [05:25.000]She handed me the keys to the car [05:29.400]We motored down to Paris, fuelled with Dexedrine and booze [05:35.350]Got bust in Antibes by the cops [05:38.600]And fleeced in Naples by the wops [05:43.000]But everyone was kind to us, we were the English dudes [05:49.100]Our dads had helped them win the war [05:52.470]When we all knew what we were fighting for [05:56.800]But now an Englishman abroad is just a US stooge [06:02.750]The bulldog is a poodle snapping round the scoundrel's last refuge [06:10.500]"Ma femme", thank God! Monopod but not queer “ [06:16.690]The taxi drove off leaving us in the dim light of the swinging bulb [06:20.650]No building in sight [06:22.200]What the hell [06:23.900]"Merci monsieur" “ [06:25.250]"Bon, Venez!" [06:25.950]His faced creased in pleasure, he set off in front of me [06:30.310]Swinging his leg between the crutches with agonising care [06:33.700]Up the dusty side road into the darkness [06:37.900]After half an hour we'd gone maybe half a mile [06:40.700]When on the right I made out the low profile of a building [06:44.500]He called out in Arabic to announce our arrival [06:47.550]And after some scuffling inside a lamp was lit [06:50.700]And the changing angle of light in the wide crack under the door [06:53.850]Signalled the approach of someone within [07:01.300]The door creaked open and there, holding a biblical looking oil lamp [07:05.200]Stood a squat, moustached woman, stooped smiling up at us [07:12.150]She stood aside to let us in and as she turned [07:14.850]I saw the reason for her stoop [07:16.120]She carried on her back a shocking hump [07:19.550]I nodded and smiled back at her in greeting, fighting for control [07:26.150]The gentleness between the one-legged man and his monstrous wife [07:29.395]America, America, please hear us when we call [07:29.900]Almost too much for me [07:31.900]Is gentleness too much for us [07:35.250]Should gentleness be filed along with empathy [07:42.100]We feel for someone else's child [07:46.030]Every time a smart bomb does its sums and gets it wrong [07:52.725]Someone else's child dies and equities in defence rise [08:05.875]You got hip-hop, be-bop, hustle and bustle [08:09.150]You got Atticus Finch [08:11.250]You got Jane Russell [08:12.900]You got freedom of speech [08:14.900]You got great beaches, wildernesses and malls [08:19.850]Don't let the might, the Christian right, **** it all up [08:24.950]For you and the rest of the world [08:28.100]They talked excitedly [08:29.850]She went to take his crutches in routine of care [08:32.800]He chiding, gestured [08:35.150]We have a guest [08:36.700]She embarrassed by her faux pas [08:38.650]Took my things and laid them gently in the corner [08:42.450]"Du the?" [08:44.500]We sat on meagre cushions in one corner of the single room [08:47.500]The floor was earth packed hard and by one wall a raised platform [08:51.700]Some six feet by four covered by a simple sheet, the bed [08:57.000]The hunchback busied herself with small copper pots over an open hearth [09:01.100]And brought us tea, hot and sweet [09:03.865]And so to dinner [09:05.400]Flat, unleavened bread, + thin [09:08.050]Cooked in an iron skillet in hearth [09:10.430]Then folded and dipped into the soft insides of female sea urchins [09:19.600]She would hear of nothing else, I was their guest [09:19.725]My hostess did not eat, I ate her dinner [09:22.900]And then she retired behind a curtain [09:25.675]And left the men to sit drinking thimbleful of Arak [09:29.500]Carefully poured from a small bottle with a faded label [09:32.900]Soon she reappeared, radiant [09:35.695]Carrying in her arms their pride and joy, their child. [09:41.880]I'd never seen a squint like that [09:44.965]So severe that as one eye looked out the other disappeared behind its nose [09:49.880]Not in my name, Tony, you great war leader you [09:56.200]Terror is still terror, whosoever gets to frame the rules [10:03.000]History's not written by the vanquished or the damned [10:10.435]Now we are Genghis Khan, Lucrezia Borghia, Son of Sam [10:16.400]In 1961 they took this child into their home [10:23.300]I wonder what became of them [10:26.550]In the cauldron that was Lebanon [10:31.020]If I could find them now, could I make amends? [10:37.800]How does the story end? [10:45.000]And so to bed, me that is, not them [10:51.000]Of course they slept on the floor behind a curtain [10:55.000]Whilst I lay awake all night on their earthen bed [10:58.850]Then came the dawn and then their quiet stirrings [11:02.350]I turned North, my guitar over my shoulder [11:02.600]Careful not to wake the guest [11:05.200]I yawned in great pretence [11:05.800]And the first hot gust of wind [11:07.400]And took the proffered bowl of water heated up and washed [11:08.100]Quickly dried the salt tears from my young cheeks. [11:10.750]And sipped my coffee in its tiny cup [11:13.330]And then with much "merci-ing" and bowing and shaking of hands [11:17.050]We left the woman to her chores [11:19.600]And we men made our way back to the crossroads [11:23.300]The painful slowness of our progress accentuated by the brilliant morning light [11:32.197]The dolmus duly reappeared [11:35.000]My host gave me one crutch and leaning on the other [11:37.550]Shook my hand and smiled [11:40.000]"Merci, monsieur," I said “ [11:42.200]" De rien " “ [11:43.850]" Et merci a votre femme, elle est tres gentille " “ [11:49.600]Giving up his other crutch [11:50.850]He allowed himself to be folded into the back seat again [11:54.500]"Bon voyage, monsieur," he said “ [11:56.945]And half bowed as the taxi headed south towards the city